Time ticks away fast, the last days of our trip approached faster than we wanted to. With such little time left, we agreed we should try to get the most out of it.
One of the highlights of my visit to Vietnam the year before were the North of Vietnam. Many other travellers we met before also agreed: Sapa is a remarkable beautiful area. The consequence would be we wouldn’t have the time left to visit Ha Long Bay. Our plane tickets back home were already booked and we had no option to change the date.
When we compared the dozens of Sa Pa offers, we opted for the rather expensive tour by Topas Travel. Last year I also stayed at the Topas Ecolodge close to Sa Pa and it did feel like heaven on earth, far away from the rather tourist overloaded small town. Topas travel had a few extra benefits which made us opt for them. First of all, they offer a pick-up and transfer from our hotel in Hanoi to Sa Pa.
And this in a rather luxurious minivan. Other packages we did find suggested to take either a bus or train which would take too much time this time.
Topas also offers trekking and a stay in a more remote area to visit the actual living places of minorities like the Red Dao and Blue H’mong and Black H’mong people. Because of the limited time we asked for a custom package which would include a stay for one night in the new and very remote lodge located in Nam Cang and one night in the Ecolodge.
Thanks to the well trained people of the offices in Hanoi, communication went very fluent. Unfortunately, this can’t be said when we tried to contact a few other organizations.
Our planned itinerary did include an easy trekking on the first day for 2 and half hours, a 7 hour trekking on the second day and still half a day of trekking before our transfer back to Hanoi.
5 hour drive from Hanoi to Sa Pa
We were picked up at our hotel in Hanoi by a fancy van. Comfy chairs like in an airplane. Lunch bag, bottles of water. There were even two drivers. We first picked up a man who said to be the next manager of the Ecolodge. A bit later we also picked up the general manager of Topas who was also traveling to Sa Pa to check on the new location in Nam Cang. The first 4 hours of the drive went pretty smooth. The driver did drive in a rather calm, civilised manner. Before we went up the mountains, both managers switched to another car and we continued. The endless turning road made Elize go a bit green and pale. But it also seemed we wouldn’t see much of the “magnificent valley view” as the whole mountain and valley was covered in a thick layer of fog.
It would stay so foggy for the rest of our stay. So bad at some point we only could see a few meters ahead. People alongside the road did pop up like zombies in an eerie horror movie.
When we arrived in Lao Cai, we had a little hour for some lunch and explore the town. As there was not much time we did enjoy an excellent lunch in the restaurant “Sapa Paradise View”.
We were the only guests for lunch. Season seemed to be already over. Nevertheless, service was excellent and food was even better. We were happy to sit in this warm place and had a truly nice conversation with one of the girls in the restaurant. We certainly would have liked to return here.
Next, one of the drivers stayed in Lao Cai and we met our guide for the next two days. Our drive continued in the direction of Nam Cang, a remote village one hour and half drive away from Lao Cai. The last part of the route we would do a trekking in order to reach the Lao Cai homestay by Topas. First impression was the new driver seemed to be driving much wilder than the ones before. They probably know the roads with their eyes closed, but still. Driving on a wet road through foggy weather avoiding kids, cows and along steep cliffs, it didn’t always feel that safe. Once we reached the other side of the mountain, the fog slowly vanished and for the first time we could see a valley. Elize did take a few photos of cows alongside the road and we continued.
A bit later we got out of our van again and we thought to begin our first warm-up trekking. It looked promising even if it was cloudy. However, what we hoped to be a 2.5 hour trekking only was a mere 1.5 kilometer walk. Completely flat. Half way, our guide did stop in a local “garage” where he had a few drinks and the locals favourite bamboo smoking pipe.
Let’s fact-check it. Using the meta-data of my photos, I can precisely reconstruct our walk.
Let’s give the moment we exit the car 00:00 as base time. At 00:17 our guide is already sitting in the garage having a smoke. I take a few photos of him and the dark and messy interior but soon after go on the street to find out not much is happening on the street. It’s only 20 minutes later (00:43) we leave the place. 3 minutes later we buy some vegetables (?) for the dinner later the evening.
We continued the road a very little to be suddenly surprised by our van next to the road. Less than 10 minutes after we left the garage, we were asked to get into the van. Confused we get in, maybe there will be another walk later on? However, less than 40 minutes later we arrived in Nam Cang.
Our first “trekking” path
Arrival at Nam Cang Riverside Lodge
The Nam Cang Riverside Lodge looks gorgeous. To reach it, you have to cross a wooden hanging bridge over a little river. It’s a little fairy tale place at the end of the village. No-one trying to sell you souvenirs or any other handicrap. Time seemed to have stopped. Except for the continuously flowing river and waterfall, the surrounding is remarkably quiet.
We find comfort with the idea it is cold and wet and we better save our energy for the promised trekking the next day. We read our books and go early into bed as darkness sets early.
The next day the weather didn’t get much better. It was even raining more. The path we were supposed to take was too dangerous due to the thick layers of mud. The guide clearly showed he’s not eager about having a walk here. After a bit of pushing and begging, he improvised an alternative walk starting from the Riverside Lodge up on the mountain.
This would give an idea of how people are actually living in this area. We did pass a school (which we didn’t go in for obvious reasons). At some point our friend the guide stopped at some people he also seemed to know well. Offered a smoke and drinks, we were told it’s fine to continue the road and to be back 30 minutes later. We walked a bit ahead and passed a few old houses, an old lady carrying a huge basket on the back and checked out an old, no longer used bridge.
Later on when we returned to the lodge, we passed several kids with colorful umbrellas returning from school. Not many were keen on my camera. Taking photos from closer distance was not an option. Our guide explained a few things on life and education in this area, which isn’t the very high level in this area.
Back at the lodge, we packed our stuff, still had something to eat before going back to our fancy van, hoping the rain would soon go away.
Our “rainy trekking path”
a warm-up morning walk of approximately 7 kilometers.
On the road to the Ecolodge in Cao Lai, it luckily stopped raining soon. After driving for already a while, we starting questioning our guide for the exact plan. It seemed they wante to bring us straight to the Ecolodge. The weather and conditions were supposedly not the best for having some trekking. At this point, it completely stopped raining. We checked the map on our phone to learn the Ecolodge was getting very close. This wasn’t the plan and was obviously not what we paid for. The guide at first seemed to ignore our wish to still have a walk, but after telling a second and third time we suddenly stopped along the road. Without much of saying, we got out of the car, descended the road towards a bridge crossing the river.
Apparently, our begging did work as we would still enjoy a rather fast-paced walk over a very muddy road. For our guide it couldn’t go fast enough. 90% of the time walking a few meters ahead of us, barely explaining anything about the area. In the distance we could see the Ecolodge sitting on the top of a hill. We crossed a very old bridge with big holes and clearly thin floor. It was clearly advised to walk on the part of the supporting beam.
With all the mud on our shoes, it was also an extremely slippery experience. But any experience was still better than just sitting in a bus.
The walk would be good for some 4 or 5 kilometers. Too short for what we had wanted, but considering the conditions of the road and the weather maybe the best
At the end of the walk, our driver was waiting for us. The bus was washed and cleaned. Driver and guide still enjoyed a last smoke before driving us to the Ecolodge.
Our “begging trekking path”
Arrival at Ecolodge bar
The road to the Ecolodge is all the way uphill. A narrow, winding road with many holes and a magnificent view over the valley. It seems to be sitting far at the end of the world. You expect it enjoy complete silence so far from everything. Unfortunately, down in the valley an electricity turbine was built at the river. Especially when foggy, you can hear the low-tuned humming of the engines. I can’t remember if this was already the case the year before. You’ll hear it best when staying on the South side of the mountain.
The moment you arrive at the Lodge, you are greeted at the entrance with dozens of the Red Dhao woman trying to sell things from you. First thing they’ll do is ask your name and they sure will remember for the rest of your stay.
The people of the Ecolodge seemed to have made a clear deal with them they are not allowed to come on the premises. There’s a thin line between feeling sorry for their poor living conditions and being completely annoyed by their begging sales techniques.
“You wanna buy from me” is a standard phrase you’ll hear hundreds of times like a parrot repeating it’s trained sentence time after time.
Last year when doing a half day walking tour in the valley closer to Lao Cai, a few of them were following us the full tour. It’s hard to resist buying something at the end. This time we have had a better training from the last couple of months so we managed to resist their siren call.
Actually I couldn’t resist to have a bit of fun with them. After checking into our lodge we still went for an evening walk. Passing by these ladies, I made them line up and did gave all but one woman high-fives. Then I drew a virtual line and ordered them not to cross it in order to make them stop following us. After repeating the message a few times they luckily gave up so we could enjoy a walk on our own.
Later on we did talk to the manager of the Ecolodge who was originally also in the van and shared our rather disappointing experience. He understood our grieves and a bit later he told us our guide will be replaced for the next morning hike. As an extra compensation, he also offered us to enjoy a warm herbal bath after our last trekking, before going back to Hanoi. Such a nice and welcome gesture.
The same evening we enjoyed sitting close to the fireplace to warm up our feet and dry our shoes. The cat on the lap and doing our best to slow down time as much as possible.
Next morning after early breakfast we were greeted by our new guide. A super friendly young guy who did speak and understand English perfectly. After the introduction he suggested on a self-drawn map the route we could walk. Though he clearly warned us the conditions were not ideal due to the rain, fog and some parts would be extremely slippery. It was not a lie.
The difference with our previous guide couldn’t have been bigger. This young man did stick with us, was very eager to talk about his own life and wanted to know more about our lives, travel and plans.
Not a single question of us he would find too difficult to answer.
We walked into a wooden house where an older man was taking care of a young baby while the other people of the house were off to work in either the city or on the land. Sandy floor, fireplace in a corner of the house. An open kitchen with very basic tools. All dark and smokey, it felt like stepping back 100 years in the past. Though the living conditions seemed extremely unhealthy and bad to us, the man didn’t seem to bother so much.
Last trekking (approximate path)
Afterwards we still stopped at a local school before finding our way through the muddy and wet rice paddies when it started raining more and more. Because the road was so slippery and it felt like we were walking in 90% humid conditions, I thought it was best to put the camera safely in the backpack. There were already enough foggy pictures takes. One fine moment was the crossing of an old wooden bridge slowly showing up in the fog. Our guide was very helpful where to step and was very keen on helping Elize. He sure did earn an extensive tip from our side.
Once back at the Lodge, we were taken to the recently built spa building where we could warm up and soak in the herbal bath. It was a welcome end of our short stay in foggy Sa Pa.
On the way back to Hanoi, a five hour drive, I listened to all the Serial podcast I had downloaded before.
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